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A new home and hope in Phnom Penh

On Friday we chose a place to live. It’s a telavang – a tall, narrow apartment (or townhouse), three stories high with a  rooftop suitable for an urban garden. It’s a concrete box with high ceilings and smooth tile underfoot. It was cool inside as we entered, a good sign that it’s lined up to avoid direct sun. The “quiet” street outside is lined with similar apartments on both sides. It ends at a wall, so cars can’t pass through. A few children played outside. The street is wide, creating a community space that feels open and inviting: room to make friends, laugh, play, and bounce thoughts and prayers outward and upward.

We settled the deal yesterday morning. A trusted Cambodian friend-of-my-friend found the place and handled all the negotiations. He did a great job and earned a commission equal to one month’s rent.

Our requests included: air conditioners in three rooms, small water heaters for two of the showers, screens on windows and openings, and a boost in the electric circuit for the unit (15 amperes to 20 or 30). The owners agreed. We paid six months rent up front, and they will use that money to make the upgrades. This is a great system for renters! In Japan, we would have paid lots of money up front and gotten nothing in return, and we would have to install (and uninstall) air conditioners at our own expense.

It’s standard for owners to pay a commission, even if a friend is helping another friend find a place to live. Some sensitivity is called for if multiple people are helping you find a place to live, because the commission is a significant amount of money for most Cambodians. As a general rule, I learned, it’s best to work with one person who has some experience negotiating with owners.

We can move in any time, starting from August 1st, if we don’t mind them working around us. First, we have to buy the basic necessities. Yesterday, we made our first purchases: a good rice cooker, a pound of coffee, and a coffee press. Next we need: beds, rice, etc. If all goes well, I hope we can move in by Wednesday. The kids start school the following Monday.

The school, by the way, if a five minute walk away. We have to cross one large street (the Dike Road), so we’ll become experts at doing that.

If we walk another five minutes, we’ll come to the Khmer School of Language (KSL).  We like KSL, because they offer a balance of conversational Khmer and basic reading and writing. We’ll probably study there for an hour a day, plus practice time and homework.

On Friday, after showering off the dust, I settled down to read a book I’d found laying around: Twelve By Twelve, by William Powers. It’s another man’s perspective on living simply.  A former development leader and activist, he wonders if his efforts were all futile. He longs for healing in a hard, flattened world oppressed by greed and despair.  He comes from a different faith and perspective, but I can relate with his story and learn from him.

Our new apartment is a world removed from the twelve foot by twelve foot house where William Powers began his journey of renewal. We’ll have a lot more square footage, electricity, and concrete in place of nature…with a garden on top. But I echo his desire to live in a way that truly signals change, with hope that won’t be crushed.

Sorry about the lack of a picture. I’ll post one soon.

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Going to live as a family in Cambodia

We’re leaving for Cambodia tomorrow. I haven’t written much about the move on this blog, but I suspect the transition will bring new life to my posts here.

We’re going to get our hands dirty. This is literally true for me, because I’m bringing thousands of seeds for gardening projects. For the record, I don’t have a green thumb, but I was well coached by a true expert (and I’m at that age when men strangely take to growing things from the earth). We’ll be plunging into new relationships, learning language and culture together, and continuing to share our journey with others searching for “a better way to live.”

You may know I’ve been taking groups of Japanese to Cambodia since early 2008, and last year our family went there for Christmas. This year we completed the process of founding Project Friends, a Japanese non-profit to help sustain and organize these efforts through a learning community in Japan.

We have a small but incredible team of volunteers in Japan. We met with many of them on Sunday. As several of them shared reports of the work they’ve done, I thought about how the scene might appear to an outside viewer. He or she might ask how we did it, pulling together such gifted people and inspiring them to participate, and I would reply: I don’t know. You can’t get such people to do that; they have to choose with freedom.

I do give credit to Hitomi, and to other leaders in the group, for facilitating relationships that people want to be part of.

Here is a video that we made to publicize Project Friends for potential participants. We made it in Japanese, but I’ve added subtitles to this version. The music is the chorus of a popular song about love and life that quaintly but hopefully repeats: Your smile will show me the way.

We’re a diverse community.We dream of a learning community in Japan who truly seek a “better way to live” as they work out the mystery of what it means to love.  We also dream of Japanese living alongside Cambodians at the margins.

We come to this work with faith in Jesus, yet we come open-handed without power in ourselves. We share freely but will not push others or expect them to respond to us. If people are made in God’s image, and God is calling them, why would we want to manipulate them and disrespect their journeys and choices? Rather, we can work and learn together with anyone who hungers for love, because we believe that hunger can only be satisfied by encountering the God who is Love, who became love in the flesh and lived among us.

With that parting thought, we cast off of our this new leg of our journey.

Let the adventures begin!

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A Shur thing, and a great coincidence

Last night my wife and I drove to Santa Fe and attended the public viewing of Review Santa Fe, a portfolio review featuring 100 up and coming photographers. It’s an international event, and I felt fortunate to be here for it.  We were able to visit one photographer, Jerry Redfern, who has lived in Cambodia and worked in Cambodia and the surrounding countries. I also met his wife, a journalist who has written the best introduction to Cambodia that I’ve read. It’s very readable book I’d recommend for anyone traveling or planning to live in Cambodia, called Cambodia Now.  She also writes an award winning food blog.

My wife came up to me midway through the event and invited me to see a picture that left her “breathless.” I followed immediately, wondering what kind of picture would have such an effect on her. She led me to Emily Shur’s table.  She is an accomplished photographer with some striking celebrity portraits on her website and a popular blog. Last night she was showing a portfolio of images from Japan, forsaking the stereotypical in favor of the every day, banal (her word) scenes that most Japanese people really see.

As she flipped through her stack of large prints, I suddenly stopped breathing and my head spontaneously pulled back. I was looking at a picture of the apartment building where we have lived for the past two years. Imagine the odds of that. Tokyo is one of the largest cities in the world. Our place was a five minute walk away a train station on the edge of the city. Emily Shur walked by and took a picture of our parking lot, and then we met on the other side of the world, singled her out among hundreds of photographers, and saw it!

UPDATE: Here’s the photo, and here’s a link to see it on her blog.

White Buildings, Takao, 2009 (by Emily Shur)

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Moving and letting go of the past

I’m sitting here on the verge of feeling overwhelmed. We’re moving out of this apartment in a few days, and we’re only taking with us what we can bring on the plane to Cambodia. Everything else will be sold or given away, except for the boxed books and memorabilia we’ll keep at Hitomi’s parents’ house.

I don’t mean to sound dramatic, but it’s a strange feeling. I’m 42, and what have I got? And how did that question get into my head?

Yesterday, I dropped off a toy stroller at a friend’s house. I hesitated to leave. I realized it was the pull of that stroller. One year we gave the twins a pair of toy strollers for the birthday, and they’ve never outgrown them. My kids have imaginations run wild. When they pretend, I can’t help but smile. Seeing the stroller go, I remembered the delighted smiles when my daughter first saw it.

Something significant is slipping away, but it’s not the stuff. Seeing these things reminds me that my kids will never be that young again. The lesson here is not to cling to what I can’t hold onto, but to open my eyes and see the blessings of today and live with nothing held back. Time is moving, and I’m moving with it. It’s really only grace that gives me hope, because everything else is passing away.

November 8, 2004

“And now these three remain: faith, hope and love. But the greatest of these is love.” 1 Cor 13:13

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Happy New Year!

Happy New Year

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